Etro’s Man of the East

comment 1
Articles / Fashion

Let’s take a moment to talk about the Etro menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2013.

There is this general idea that menswear (still) revolves around ‘the suit’. It does. It’s not a wrong thought or an ignorant one so don’t be ashamed if you immediately think of suits when you think of men. In all honesty, it’s very rare that a menswear collection comes out that’s not either a very bland and boring display of black and grey suits of average cut, or something so insanely out of the box no man would actually consider wearing it (see: Ann Demeulemeester 2012).

What happens with Etro is, in the end, the same line of thought emerging from Prada. The collections may be absolutely nothing alike, but they’re never like all the other ones. They always follow a line of thought, a character, that is not the typical Wall Street strock broker. Remember that wonderful Prada campaign with Jamie Bell, Willem Dafoe, Garrett Hedlund, Gary Oldman et al? Remember the collection? It was so deliciously dandy, full of bright geometric patterns, jewel details, cravattes, stiff high-neck collared shirts, pinstripe vests, long coats, all in a palette of scarlet red, black and white… I could go on about it forever. This Etro collection did the same for me.

(continue reading for video and review)

Every season, the Etro man becomes a different character. There were seasons of full-on cowboys with weathered leather and of decadent aristocrats in bright prints and velvet blazers. This year, Etro seems to have looked towards the East as it brings us an array of ensembles as breathtakingly elegant as they are effortless – and ridiculously easy to wear. Silken palace shirts and trousers, luxurious robes that flow to the sound of a low, rhythmic drumming that almost hypnotizes you; a muted palette of navy blue, steel grey and chocolate brown, mixed with flashes of ruby red, and in shimmery lush materials that, instead of forming the sharp, tailored lines you would expect from a men’s collection, drape softly and fall in a way that follows the body’s shape and movement. The structure is there, just in a different way – just as this is a different kind of businessman.

There is an imaginary scent of incense as you find yourself immersed in a world of oriental luxury for the western man. A New York billionaire, living somewhere between Hong Kong and Bombay, who is tired of golfing at the Hamptons and has decided to search for paradise on Earth. Dark and mysterious, highly intellectual, he is confident enough to shun the suit and tie and embrace a very relaxed yet slightly ostentatious kind of luxury – flip-flops instead of brogues, turbans and longer locks. It’s the businessman of the future, hailing from the lands of the East, ridding himself of the formalities of Wall Street style, acknowledging and embracing the fact that the world is not limited to the Western rules of society, but in fact a wondrous mix of cultures and riches that go way beyond the changing of numbers on a screen.

With this, I’m not saying you’re not cool if you don’t wear a turban – even though some men could probably pull it off amazingly off the runway, whether it’s part of their culture or not. What I mean is that as Prada has shown us a scarlet, unabashed dandy and Etro gives us a relaxed billionaire from the East, menswear is becoming more differentiated. Sure, there will always be Burberry (suits), Hermès (really nice suits) and Armani (every man’s dinner jacket) – but it’s pleasurable to watch this side of fashion evolve into something more.

Designers are only now starting to break the Western notion that menswear is about formality and work, work, work. It is my hope that this brings about a significant change, something that will start giving all men, not just those in the spotlight, the confidence to dress differently and the freedom to wear not only what they think is appropriate, but what they think is inspiring.

Fashion is all about dreams – and that shouldn’t be limited to women.

Advertisements

The Author

24-year-old Portuguese girl. Bilingual English, fluent in Italian. BA in Fashion Communication. MUA with a proper diploma! MA Creative Media student. Globetrotter and shopaholic, can't seem to be able throw away menswear magazines. Has a serious mental problem when it comes to buying photography books and is working towards being a part of the fashion industry.

1 Comment

  1. João Pena says

    How many things in life like men´s business wear changed so little in 200 years ? In the last 60 years, it has just been about circling around the same small changes, as we now go back to the Don Draper slim lapels, slim ties, sleek look and the solid greys and blues. And the big thing about the square pocket being back really shows how stuck men´s businesswear is with this strangely freezed paradygm.

    Is the world really changing at a pace where a dramatic change in men´s businesswear can be foreseen in the next few years ? As unprobable as that may seem at first sight, your interpretation on Etro´s collection has a powerful point – as Asia and the Middle East take an increasingly central role in the world and these cultures´ formal menswear have each one a a proper, particular, singular language – one in India , one in China, one in Japan etc etc – this may in fact influence a change in the Euro-American hyper-classic paradygm. Provided smart and talented designers can influence the western businessman through their own role models (again as you say rightly in your post) , the smooth settled independent very wealthy stylish and tasteful set, this will happen quicker than we think. The problem is what we guys will have to deal with a problem we were never educated or prepared to deal with – managing a much more dynamic wardrobe and , even worse, what to I do with all my blue and grey Zegna suits and my all the same made to order white swiss cotton shirts .

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s